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Africa’s tourism industry is now the second fastest growing in the world

May 5, 2020

Some 67 million tourists visited Africa in 2018, representing a rise of 7% from a year earlier, making Africa the second-fastest growing region when it comes to tourism, after Asia Pacific.

African countries are now reaping the benefits from positive policy changes coupled with increased investments in the sector, that have made it a more attractive destination for tourists.

In Ethiopia, for example, relaxing visa restrictions while improving flight connectivity has seen Addis transformed into a regional transport  hub, even overtaking Dubai as the world’s gateway to Africa. This has resulted in Ethiopia becoming Africa’s fastest growing travel country, growing by 48.6% in 2018, according to  Jumia Africa Hospitality report,

Business visitors numbers in particular have received a boost from business-enabling reforms from some governments that have seen the potential in diversifying the sector. Kenya, Rwanda and South Africa have undertaken initiatives to position themselves as locations for conferences and exhibitions.

Click here to read the full article on Quartz Africa.

In Africa general Tags travel, tourism, Africa
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Cotonou turnup and curious observations in Benin

March 26, 2019
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We left Ouidah by night to head to Cotonou to turn up. One of the strangest things I noticed during our Benin trip was how we gassed up the car. Most times we would pull over to the roadside to a shack sometimes manned by kids with tens of 5 liter bottles and lots of refilled alcohol 1 or 1.5 liter bottles, negotiate for petrol and the fuel would be funneled into the car. . After checking into our Airbnb, we went to a cute little place to eat and watch a Congolese live band. Next stop....the dunda. I had carried full dunda regalia...a cute little blue dress and heels....The little blue dress was one of the victims of the Ghana/African black soap disaster in my suitcase... How did I not start lathering in the club when African black soap met sweat? Let's just say I was not winning at life that night..but I was so fresh and so clean:-)

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Anyway, when we got to the club, there were very many people outside....and many of them looked like they were born in the late 90s or early 2000s. Most of the girls were wearing sneakers....Aich...I turned to Cediced Soundiata Keita and asked, "Please don't tell me we're coming to the beach and you let me wear heels and a soapy freakum dress..."But I serve a living God. It was actually a club club...the only little hiccup was that they were throwing a huge Halloween party... Hence all the youth around. Feeling a bit silly having come to a Halloween party as ourselves, while most people were walking around looking like Satan's disciples, we went straight to the bar for drinks. Moving past the dangling skeletons, the snakes made of fabric, the infant corpses that decorated the roof, we finally got to the bar. After a drink, I realized that while this might not have been the party I expected, it was the one I was meant to be at. The music was really really really good! Everyone was happy. Danceoffs were happening at every corner of the place. It turned out to actually be a very very very fun night of dancing and drinking till 4am. As I stood there lathering in my sweat soaked, African black soap infused dress, smiling at the foam snakes as I recalled the lovely afternoon with the pythons of Ouidah, moving past dangling skeletons and spider webs, passing youth with grim reaper costumes as I shook my nyash to Davido beats, I thought to myself....""Cotonou turn up has really not disappointed even if it has taken a different form from what I envisioned."

In Benin Tags travel blogger, travelling, traveling, trip, travel, travelblogger, Cotonou, Benin
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Ouidah, Benin - Rue des esclaves

March 19, 2019
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It began to get really dark and we left as we still wanted to visit Rue des Esclaves (Thé slave route) before leaving Ouidah for Cotonou. I really loved that Rue des Esclaves felt like a living museum. It's not just one particular spot, but a whole few kilometers stretch that ends with the Door of No Return by the Atlantic. Our first stop was at The Forgetting Tree. It was a spot where slaves were first taken. The men were made to go round the tree 9 times and the women 7 times with the objective being to get them confused about where home was, but in reality preparing them for a future where they would never know home, forget their culture and origin and not be able to unite. I know on that long stretch we passed many more heartbreaking monuments, but for me this was the one that really got me...the finality that in one moment one belonged to a certain family, clan, community and suddenly in the next moment, they would be in the middle passage - which if they survived, they would be on their way to endure unimaginable horrors and be broken to not know where home was, who they were, that they once belonged somewhere...have their names taken from them, made to forget their languages, sold and resold till kin and family became a luxury for most.. I mean, I know the word sorry is not strong enough to make up for things of such magnitude, but I want to say that I'm so so sorry for all that the sons and daughters of our continent who were sold off to slavery have endured and I am sorry for the role that we played in allowing this to happen.

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As we continued down Rue des esclaves we came across the most beautiful village completely on water. Benin has quite a few of these floating villages. I couldn't help but notice just how beautiful and breathtaking the landscape on rue des esclaves was and reflecting on the fact that for many, this was the last part of the continent they saw.

We finally got to the door of no return as darkness was falling.

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In Benin Tags travelling, travel blogger, traveling, travel, travelblogger, benin, Ouidah, slavehistory
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Kpalime, Togo - Waterfalls and foodfest

March 5, 2019
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My housemate Salma Ait Hssayene always laughs at me when I tell her that "I had great intentions.... but..." This was one of those days. We had great intentions to leave Lome for Kpalime in the North of Togo by 11am....but....

So we left maybe around 1:30pm and arrived close to 4pm.. On the way we picked Yannick.....everyone Cediced Soundiata Keita speaks to on the phone is called Yannick, but this was a new one. I think his friendship strategy is that if you are called Yannick, you're in:-) Either that or it's a more common name than I thought. This particular Yannick runs Home Made Lomé..Cedric mentioned that he makes the best ragout....For those who do not have refined palates (Wakonyo Kimeria accuses me of this, saying she can't understand how I eat almost the same thing everyday) or those who are not well versed in the culinary arts (including me in that list....I had to ask Cedric what Ragout is once the camera stopped rolling. I guessed he wasn't saying that Yannick makes amazing pasta sauce (Ragu)......Ragout is a french dish of small pieces of meat with lots of vegetables.).

Between Yannick and me, we had enough turn up energy and a few spirits in our bags to make sure we were very entertaining co-drivers to Cedric. There was a cooking competition happening at Kpalime with lots of different Togolese food and drinks companies displaying their stuff. Me and Cedric left shortly thereafter with a fixer to get us to the waterfalls before dark.... Remember that in Togo the sun sets at 6pm.. basically if Cinderella was Togolese, her chariot would have turned into a pumpkin at 5:45pm....Bleehhh..I know Cinderella's curfew had nothing to do with sunset....Anyhooo....

So we get to the first waterfall in 30 minutes.. It's lovely, picturesque, heavenly...pick a word... But pictures speak louder than words. As we are exiting of course there is a guy who appears suddenly to say we need to pay him for our waterfall visit....fealty for the Lord of the Fall. A long debate ensues about "but why exactly do we have to pay you? Who are you if not the Togolese version of the rent-seeking troll under the bridge?" Anyway, a long, drawn out but not very spirited verbal back and forth goes on between him and my friend. "What exactly do you do here at the waterfall?" "I clean it. How dare you question my JD?" "Ok. Where is the JD and the explanation for why I need to pay you even though you have really served no purpose in our Waterfall visit?" "How dare you question me in this way? I will show you proof from my bag that I am indeed entitled to this payment...."

Repeat..

All this to say that there are always people in life trying to reap where they have not sowed.

Anyway...we finally quitted là-bas and continued with our fixer to this other waterfall that he assured us was 10 minutes away. 45 minutes later as our car struggled on this treacherous dirt road, he kept on saying we were 10 minutes away. 5:03pm we arrived at a point beyond which the car could not move. He then said we were 10 minutes walk away. We ended up with a new additional guide who could walk us there. That walk made me think of all the accidental mountain walks I've done. A few years back after a particularly grueling accidental mountain hike near the Uganda-Rwanda border looking to see mountain gorillas, I had vowed "No more mountains!"

Alas... Here I was again...dying as we went uphill and downhill this "10" minute hike trying to make sure to get to the waterfall and be back at the car before the darkness of 6pm. When we did get to the waterfalls, they were lovely, but I couldn't enjoy them fully without the nagging thoughts of how terrible my night vision is, how most of the route back to the car would be uphill i.e. death and hemaing (panting) galore. Suffice it to say, there were many moments on the trip back when I felt like saying "I'm fine, just leave me on this rock to nap a bit. I will catch up later" but my friend wouldn't let me. He held my hand and pulled me up most of the journey back to the car. We got to the car just a few minutes before complete darkness set in.

We went back to the cooking event and now it was a bash featuring Togolese band that plays a fusion of heavy metal, rap, traditional togolese sounds and rock. ARKA'N, afrika hard metal...It was a treat for my ears. We stayed for a few hours during which one of the stalls at this completely free food event fed everyone...for free. When I told Yannick about my surprise after getting all this food and being told it was free, he said "Togo is different." So from my 2 days here, I've concluded that Togolese people love to feed everyone for free.. I'm still trying to figure out the business model as I somewhat guiltily indulge in all this free food. Cedric on his part said, "This is food tasting" as I surprisingly looked at my very very full plate of food and wondered what a "food eating" would look like if this buffet was food tasting.

I got to reflect on this as I sipped on a few free sampler drinks in the next booth operated by a Togolese liquor company NeHo Likors...Yum ... But had I stayed there a few more hours, I might have become a zombie.. Those drinks were strong, but quite tasty. I need to try out their coconut flavour and chocolate-vanilla.

Having supported some local businesses for the day:-), we went to find accommodation for the night and then some food for my friend who had looked at me with amusement as i chowed down the food at the event saying "Ciku...this food is not that great." Maybe Konyo is right..maybe I really don't have a refined palate.

In Togo Tags travel, travel blogger, travelling, traveling, togo, Kpalime
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First days in Lome!

February 26, 2019
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First days in Lome! It was a great Dakar-Abidjan-Lome flight where I bumped into my amazing Ghanaian writer friend Ayesha Harruna Attah who lives in Popenguine....Please please get your copy of The Hundred Wells of Salaga. We got to sit together all the way to Abidjan, laugh, tell stories, video call her cute little baby and eat lots of chocolate at the Abidjan airport.She was on her way back home to Accra then to Lagos for Ake book festival.

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I got into Lome at 9:30pm on Thursday night. Was a relatively quick process of getting my 7 day visa on arrival ($35) with option of extending for free if I go to immigration office..an option I pursued given I was crossing road borders into Ghana, Benin and back to Lome. For the millionth time in my travels, I had forgotten my yellow fever card. I had to pay for that. Immigration folks were so friendly..The guy who was writing my new yellow fever card for me asked me if anyone was meeting me at the airport and gave me his phone to call him....The guy who was helping me with the trolley also joyfully offered me his phone to call my friend. I let him know that I had already contacted him. Meeting my friend was great! We're actually quite close now though we've never met in person. We met on Instagram in mid 2017 and have been talking since. Our plans to link up before in ATL or NY (where he lives) never materialized, but we've constantly been in touch. He's Togolese-Congolese and left his banking job in NY to start up Wezon (a travel company looking to serve the African market by providing home rentals, car rentals, guides, tour packages etc.) We greeted each other like old friends. In short, talking to strangers sometimes, might just be the right thing to do....We met up with his amazing girlfriend, swung by his place to say hi to his dad and then me him, and his friend went out for a drink. In the morning we swung by a market Le Marche de Cacaveli to check out the shop of a friend of his (Adjoasika Na Mawu) who used to be a lawyer and left her job to focus on Made in Togo textiles plus some processed foods. Her stuff was lovely (of course i really really really needed another skirt:-)...plus I got to also try out artisanal Togolese chocolate - Chocotogo.. It was quite delicious.... On a side note, at the Abidjan airport, I had also tried out some artisanal Ivorian chocolate ..Mon Choco. I'm loving all these locally produced West African chocolate is also part of a collective of Togolese businesswomen focusing on locally made/sourced textiles, cosmetics and processed foods. They are part of the people whose stuff we will get to sample in Kpalime.

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We then left the market to swing by the home in Lome where his dad grew up. Just before getting into the house, we were called across the street by a lady who runs a small food place..it was her daughter's birthday.... maybe 15th or so judging from her appearance and they were on day one of three of street partying. The family had made sandwiches and bought drinks (beers, sodas etc.) which they were inviting anyone passing by the area to partake. That's how we ended up in this street party....yep... such generosity I'm experiencing in Togo! There was a mini-twerk contest at the street party. Lots of great jams were playing including Togo's very own Toofan.

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After that we checked out the home my friend's dad grew up in, swung by the beach for a drink and to watch the sunset. At 6pm, it was pitch dark. Can you believe the sun goes down that early in Lome. We went to a restaurant, picked up some food to go, went back to my friend's dad's place (where we were staying.) More food came into the mix. My friend set up a Togolese meal fit for a queen. I ate and ate and ate till I couldn't stand up. As I was passing out on the chair, he was explaining to me what everything was....White sweet ugali (ablo), plantains (amadam), yellow spicy ugali (djenkoume), full grllled tilapia in onions and tomatoes, yovo gboma (egusi), adokoin (fried oysters in a deep fried tomato sauce.. We were to go out partying after that...some place near the beach. Everyone decided to take a one hour nap, from which we woke up the next morning...Next stop…Off to Kpanime.... waterfalls and cooking fest.

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In Togo Tags travelling, travel, travelblogger, Africa, lome, traveling, trip
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Moheli, Comoros

Moheli, Comoros

Seven Things You Need to Know About Traveling in Africa on an African Passport

February 19, 2019

The dream of visa-free travel in Africa for Africans is still a dream, but it's changing. Here's what you should know.

If you've ever tried to travel around the continent on an African visa, you know that it can be quite confusing. From having to contact embassies in third countries to obtuse rules at customs. A few years back when I was backpacking through Ivory Coast, Burkina Faso, Togo and Benin, I was asked to provide various documentation from my hosts. This documentation had to be stamped by a high ranking police officer in their countries of residency.

I should mention that I was planning to couchsurf in all these countries. I was also asked to provide proof of bus ticket bookings—despite the fact that you can only get your next bus ticket when you get to a certain city. The administrative hurdles almost made me give up on the trip altogether. The reader will understand why even when I fell terribly ill in Ouagadougou, I was still quite tempted to take the 17 hour bus ride to Lome. After all the money I had spent getting the various visas, the 5+ trips to each of the embassies, only to get a one month single-entry visa, I was not about to cut my trip short.

In 2016, the African Development Bank published the first Africa Visa Openness report. It confirmed what many Africans had always suspected, but never really had numbers to confirm: It's easier for North Americans to travel within Africa than Africans themselves. To be precise, at that time in 2016, Africans needed visas to enter 55 percent of countries on the continent while North Americans only needed them for 45 percent of African countries. In addition, Africans could only get visas on arrival in 25 percent of African countries compared to the 35 percent for North Americans.

Since then, there have been some changes and improvements to visa policies on the continent with some of them being highlighted in the third edition of the Africa Visa Openness report that was published at the end of 2018.

Okayafrica rounds up all the important information for the African wanderluster looking to travel on the continent!

  • Contrary to what you would expect, the strongest African passport for traveling within Africa isn't South Africa, but Kenya. A Kenyan passport can get you to 33 African countries (18 visa free, 15 visa on arrival), compared to 29 countries for an South African passport (16 visa free, 13 on arrival) and 28 for a Nigerian one (17 visa free and 11 on arrival.

  • You can now easily access up to date information from the AfDB visa openness site that shows which countries you need a visa for, which ones you can get on arrival and which ones you must apply for before travel. The data is available for all African countries and periodically verified with data from The International Air Transport Association. This is a relief! No need to spend hours on the phone trying to reach embassies that might not even be in your country!

  • While the continent is still a long way from visa free travel for Africans, there have been great improvements in the past 3 years since the first AfDB visa openness report was released. By the end of 2018, Africans on average do not need visas to travel to 25 percent of other African countries (up from 20 percent in 2016), need visas to travel to 51 percent of other countries (down from 55 percent in 2016) and can get visas on arrival in 24 percent of other countries (down from 25 percent in 2016.) In 2016, only Seychelles allowed visa free entry to all Africans. By the end of 2018 Benin also scrapped all visas for Africans. From 2016 to mid 2018, 43 countries improved or maintained their visa openness score. Progress is painfully slow but in the right direction.

  • The weakest African passports for traveling in the continent are all found in East Africa—Somalia , Eritrea, Sudan, Ethiopia and Djibouti. Somalis get visa free travel only to only 2 countries and visa on arrival in 11, Eritreans (3 no visa, 14 on arrival), Sudanese (2 no visa, 15 on arrival), Ethiopians (4 no visa, 14 on arrival) and Djiboutians (4 no visa, 15 on arrival)\

  • The countries that are most welcoming to other Africans in terms of not needing visas or giving visas on arrival are Benin & Seychelles (1st place), Rwanda & Togo (2nd place), Guinea-Bissau & Uganda (3rd place), Ghana (4th place) & Cape Verde (5th)

To access my full article on Okayafrica, click here.

In Africa general Tags travel, travelling, traveling, travelblogger, travel blogger, Visas, Visa restrictions
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In Conversation: The Director of The Museum of Black Civilizations

February 12, 2019

In his novel Foreign Gods, Inc., critically acclaimed Nigerian novelist, Okey Ndibe, tells the story of Ike, a New York-based Nigerian cab driver who sets out to steal the statue of an ancient war deity from his home village and sell it to a New York gallery. Driven to this point of desperation by a series of unfortunate events in his life as a migrant, Ike hatches a plan to steal this statue that, in modern times, he believes, means little to his people—but one that could fetch him a pretty penny if it gets into the hands of collectors in the West.

I could not help but contrast this image with that of me walking into the new Museum of Black Civilizations in Dakar, flanked by busloads of Senegalese school children eager and excited to see artifacts from around their continent, in their own continent. The fact that African art did not have to leave the continent to be valued is perhaps the most vital aspect of this fabulous new museum.

The museum draws its architectural inspiration from the inner atriums of the homes in the Casamance region in the South of Senegal and the Great Zimbabwe. These houses consist of rooms built in a circle with a round and empty patio in the middle that is used for catching rainwater. This design creates a tunnel of light reaching the center of the building. In the center of the museum is a 40 feet tall steel baobab tree sculpture by Haitian artist, Edouard Duval-Carrié. Inside, the museum is broken down into four sections: The Cradle of Humanity, Continental African Civilizations, Globalization of Africa and Africa Now.

I meet Hamady Bocoum, the museum's director, in his office. He's a seasoned archeologist, researcher and erstwhile Director of the African Institute of Basic Research in Dakar and who speaks passionately about the issues. The work behind the museum, he tells me, began in the 1960s at the encouragement of Senegalese president, Léopold Sédar Senghor—in 2015 the plan was revived and it opened last year with the mandate of being for all people of African origin worldwide.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity

You've said that in the creation of the museum you found it easier to articulate what it shouldn't be rather than what it should be. What is the museum not?

Some of the things we agreed on is firstly, that this would not be a museum on ethnology. Ethnology to us is about westerners looking at Africans—for example, the Masai people are a nomadic… the Hausa are…—rather than us looking at ourselves. The second thing was that this museum would not be an anthropological one. This is because anthropology is what was used to rationalize the concept of race—a concept that has had devastating effects for those outside the power structures, especially black people. Anthropology allowed the enslavement of black people to be legitimized. The third thing we agreed on was that this would not be a subaltern museum.

Gayatri Chakravorty Spivak, an Indian scholar, literary theorist, and feminist critic describes subaltern in the postcolonial context as follows: "Western intellectuals relegate other, non-Western (African, Asian, Middle Eastern) forms of "knowing", of acquiring knowledge of the world, to the margins of intellectual discourse, by re-formulating these forms of knowing as myth and as folklore. To be heard and known, the subaltern must adopt Western ways of knowing, of thought, reasoning, and language."]

Our determination to not be a subaltern museum was the reason we did not model the museum on any museums such as the Louvre, Musée d'Orsay or other well known museums. We wanted the museum not to be held to western standards in terms of how it should look. Our museum would traverse the whole story from the origin of mankind to contemporary times.

The overarching sentiment was that the story of black civilizations is a story of humanity. The Manden Charter of the Mandingo people of West Africa was created in the 13th century making it one of the oldest constitutions in the world—albeit oral. It has its first law as "All life is equal." Africans never placed people above animals, trees, lakes or forests. In Africa, when we prayed or ask for forgiveness before killing an animal for food, we did not do this out of superstition. We did it because of our view on humanity.

Africa was the locomotive of human civilization for over 7 million years ago. Colonization was around 550 years of that time period. We want the museum to be representative of African history in its entirety.

What's your favourite story behind how artifacts came to your museum?

When the British destroyed Benin city in 1897 they stole all the masks of the Oba People.These are on display in the British museum. What they didn't know was that there were two copies of each of the masks. The others were with the queen mother who lived outside of Benin City. When she heard that her son, the Oba (King) had been imprisoned, she hid all these masks. We have her collection here on display. They have been available for display in different parts of the world. They recently came from Miami and we will be sending them back shortly to Nigeria.

To read my full interview on Okayafrica, click here.

In Senegal Tags Senegal, Museum of Black Civilizations, art, Museum, History, travel, travelblogger, traveling, Dakar
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Dakar’s Museum of Black Civilizations is a vital step for a people reclaiming their history

February 5, 2019

The recent release of the groundbreaking study by Senegalese economist Felwine Sarr and French historian Bénédicte Savoy calling for the restitution of Africa’s looted assets has sparked debates from the art historians of Paris and London to the museums and cultural centers of Africa’s major cities.

With over 90,000 African artifacts in French museums and thousands more spread throughout different museums in Europe, the debate rages on about whether Africa should be “loaned” back her looted assets and whether we have the ability or interest to safeguard our treasures. This is why the recent opening of the Museum of Black Civilizations in Dakar could not have been more timely.

The massive 14,000 square meters complex has four floors that draw its architectural inspiration from the inner atriums of the homes in the Casamance region in the south of Senegal and from the Great Zimbabwe kingdom. The first thing the viewer is confronted with is the huge baobab sculpture by Haitian sculptor Edouard Duval-Carrié in the middle of the museum. The beloved tree of life is of great cultural, spiritual and historical significance in Senegal with some of the trees being between 1,000 – 2,500 years old and having more than 300 uses.

The museum hopes to represent all black civilizations, but the fact that it is based in Dakar is not mere coincidence. Art lives and breathes in Dakar. With its founding father and the brain-child behind this grand museum – Léopold Sédar Senghor – having been a poet, cultural theorist and leading pan-Africanist thinker, it makes sense that Dakar would be the home of this museum.  The literary movement of negritude—a framework of critique and literary theory was developed mainly by Francophone intellectuals, writers, and politicians of the African diaspora during the 1930s. Key among its founders were Senghor, Martinican poet Aimé Césaire and Léon Damas of French Guyana. As such, Dakar is very well-suited to be the continental home of this movement.

Follow the link to read my full article on Quartz.

In Senegal Tags museum, Senegal, Dakar, Senghor, Museum of Black Civilizations, traveling, travelling, travelblogger, travel blogger, travel
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The story of portraiture and photography in Saint-Louis, Senegal

February 6, 2018

There has been increasing interest to unearth and understand Africa’s photographic history in recent years. Whether this is driven by the growing treasure trove of black and white images from the continent resurfacing; a need to dispel myths about what Africa is and is not; or a growing interest in photography for storytelling purposes in the Instagram-obsessed age, this journey promises to be an interesting one.

The latest treasure to be revealed on that journey is the Saint-Louis Photography Museum in Saint-Louis, Senegal, which opened last November. The museum hopes to eventually build an extensive collection of historic portraits, but has started off with the impressive personal collection of its founder, Amadou Diaw, a Senegalese businessman and founder of Groupe ISM, one of the region’s most respected business schools. The striking collection, mostly dating from 1930 to 1950, highlights the country’s rich and deep photography tradition.

Many of the most well-known photographs from West Africa were captured by Malick Sidibe, an internationally renowned photographer from Mali who captured iconic black and white images of the region in the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. Sidibe died in April 2016. But the history of photography in West Africa stretches further back. It begins in the coastal town of Saint-Louis in the north of Senegal, where a photo camera, believed to be the first to be used in West Africa (link in French), was sent by the French Minister of Marine and Colonies in 1863.

Saint-Louis was a leading urban center established by French traders in the 17th century. To maintain their stronghold, French colonists relied heavily on the establishment of a metis (mixed race) society. This society was born out of a union of French traders or soldiers (who usually had their own families in France) marrying local women (usually of a high class) to further their business interests. These women and their female descendants, known locally as the Signares, are an important part of Saint-Louis’ culture and history.

To read the full article, please follow this link to Quartz. 

In Senegal Tags Senegal, Saint-Louis, Dakar, travel, travelblogger, travelling, trip, holiday, Signares
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Final day in Japan – drama, drama, drama

October 10, 2017

Having slept at my friends Airbnb the night before because of a small homelessness situation, I woke up at 8am to check if I could head home to pack, but discovered that we were still locked out of our Airbnb. I slept again and woke up at 2pm -keys still had not yet been sent. I did the logical thing – I went to kill time shopping. As I was shopping, I got a panicky call from Mouna – the hosts had sent over the keys at 2:30pm but expected us out of the apartment at 3pm as they had new people coming in and needed the place cleaned. I was annoyed to say the least. Of course it was just an act of nature that the key had refused to work and we had been locked out of our Airbnb….but the hosts surely must have realized what an inconvenience this was. Mouna and Nguhi had to pay for a hotel room. I was lucky in that I crashed at my friend’s place. But after all that, how could you rush us out of the apartment? I was downtown, my stuff was spread out throughout the apartment….because well…I’m messy. That’s the life I live. I open my backpack and throw everything around. That's who I am. I did not choose this life. This life chose me. 

I rushed from downtown like a madwoman with all myshopping. Poor Mouna had to pack my backpack as she was been given pressure to make sure all our stuff was out of the apartment before 3pm. She had a flight to catch. I finally made it home – managed to give Mouna a giant hug as I found her with my backpack on the corridor as she waited to leave for the airport. I packed the rest of my shopping on the corridor – as we now could not get back into the apartment. I was flustered. All these changes cut into the day I thought would be a peaceful day with only an evening flight to worry about.

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Backpack packed. Running with giant backpack to get to the train station. Knees rattling because of how heavy my giant backpack is. I had gone a bit overboard with gift-buying on that final day.

I had put all my remaining yen into a train ticket that I thought would get me all the way to the airport….only to realize that the ticket I needed was a different one. Having changed trains twice and this giant backpack killing me, I kinda felt like the world was conspiring against me when I discovered that I needed to buy a new train ticket – which was sold 2 or 3 levels down….which when you’re carrying a backpack is the equivalent of being told you need to walk to Timbuktu. I got to the counter and was told the ticket would cost me ~$4. I had only $2 in cash as I had put all the money into the other ticket thinking it was the one I needed. The lady told me that I could find an ATM 2 levels up. She did not seem amused when I was pulling out Kenya shillings and Nairas from my wallet asking if I could top up the $2 with those.

Struggles with backpack. Walks back to Mecca (ATM) from Timbuktu (ticket counter) and the minimum amount one can withdraw from the ATM was $100.

FML!

I contemplated begging at the train station for $2, but I realized that I would only be giving Africans a bad reputation….So I took out $100 in Yen because I needed $2. I trudged back to Timbuktu from Mecca, paid for my ticket. I finally got on this train, but I was a nervous wreck as I don’t understand Japanese and was still not 100% sure that I was on the right train until I finally got to the airport at 7:30pm for my 9pm flight.

And with that I bid farewell to Japan! Such a wonderful, crazy, intense trip. Thanks Natsuno!!

 

In Japan Tags Japan, Tokyo, traveling, travel, travelblogger, travel blogger, backpacking
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Big budhaa at Kamakura, boat cruise at Yokohama and partying “la petite Dakar a Tokyo”

October 3, 2017
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Saying this was going to be a busy day is the understatement of the year. In the morning, I took a train with Nguhi to go see the big budhaa at Kamakura.

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The Great Buddha of Kamakura is a bronze statue of Amida Buddha, which stands on the grounds of Kotokuin Temple. It’s 13.35m in height and is the second tallest bronze Budhaa statue in Japan, surpassed only by the statue in Nara's Todaiji Temple. It was built in 1252 and similar to most budhaas in Japan, it was inside a large temple hall. A series of typhoons and tidal waves in the 14th and 15th centuries destroyed the temple buildings and the Budhaa has been in open air since 1495. Kamakura used to be the capital of Japan in the 12th and 13th century.

After Kamakura, we went to meet the rest of the #mirozinjapan for a night boat cruise in Yokohama.

Yokohama was one of the first Japanese ports opened to foreign trade, in 1859. It contains a large Chinatown with hundreds of Chinese restaurants and shops. Before the cruise, a few of us ate in Chinatown. The cruise was lovely in a strange way – most such cruises are about seeing nature, but we were intentionally going to see factories and industrial areas of Japan😊.

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One would think that the day was complete, but not at all. That evening #mirozinjapan were hosting a party in a club where drinks and snacks from our different countries would be served. We had all carried a few unique items from our various countries. My contribution had mostly been in the form of tuskers and sesame bars. After the night’s partying, I got a second wind. I would be leaving Tokyo on the next night and I knew that this particular night would be my only chance to give Tokyo my all.

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Party plans were also aided by the fact that I overstayed at the “La petite Dakar a Tokyo” party and missed the last train home. You should have seen Kabura and I running like mad women to catch that train only to find it had left us. Having given up on getting home affordably, partying all night sounded like a great alternative. Ben and I ended up going to Roppongi and finding a bar with a Kenyan owner. We were welcomed like long lost relatives. I love my Kenyan people! Especially when traveling – it feels as if you’re home when you bump into other Kenyans. We stayed there then finally ended up at an all-you-can-drink bar. It was all-you-can-drink for women, but I believe we got in and I sneakily shared drinks with Ben. Then I got a message from my roomies that the key to our Airbnb was not working and they had all gone to get hotel rooms for the night. I knew that partying had been divine intervention as I would have been in a similar homeless situation. I was lucky to be able to spent the night at Kabura’s Airbnb -  which we staggered into at 4am.

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In Japan Tags Japan, Tokyo, traveling, travelling, travel blogger, travelblogger, travel, backpacking, vacation, MirozinJapan
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Alone time in Tokyo - Harajuku, Meiji shrine, Akihabara, Roppongi

September 26, 2017
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Tokyo had revealed to me just how exhausted I was after all our crazy backpacking. I was almost never able to make it for any of our morning group plans in Tokyo. All I wanted to do was sleep, sleep and sleep some more. I recall Mouna asking me, “Did you come to Japan to sleep?” Death..My friend has a way with words. So I took my Tokyo trip into my own hands and decided that I was not going to let this be an expensive sleeping trip, but really take advantage of the fact that I was in Tokyo – Tokyo of all amazing places with Natsuno as our fabulous tour guide, and I was going to explore the city.

I spent a few days wandering around Harajuku – the home of Tokyo street fashion. A long walk down Takeshita street – revealed lots of fascinating and amusing people and shops.

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I spent a lovely afternoon visiting the Meiji shrine – Tokyo’s most famous Shinto shrine dedicated to the late 19th century emperor who opened Japan to the West. The shrine is dedicated to the spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shoken. In the Edo Period (1603-1867), the site had belonged to the Kato family and Ii family, both feudal lord families. In the Meiji era, the shrine was built in 1920 at the site and the inner garden – Yoyogi garden.

I marveled at the 40 foot high gate at the entrance to the 200 acre park Meiji shrine is in. The gate is made of 1500 year old cypress…..Japan must have the most polite termites….you’re telling me wood can survive that long?

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I wondered about the hundreds of wine barrels near the shrine. Turns out that Emperor Meiji who had embraced western culture, was a lover of wine and particularly loved wine from the wineries in Burgundy.

When I finally got to the shrine, I enjoyed the tranquility of it. It was very understated compared to Akasuka shrine that I had visited only a few days back. Everything was more moderate. There was the budhaa with the two angry genies next to him to chase away evil spirits. There was a little place where coins were dropped into for good luck. There was smoke and incense.  

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I also spent half a day at Akihabara – the gadget/tech part of Tokyo.

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In the evening me and my roomies walked to roppongi hills – a really popular area with great restaurants, an amazing club scene etc. and enjoyed a calm dinner in a really great restaurant before walking back home and calling it a night.   

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In Japan Tags Japan, Tokyo, travel blogger, travel, traveling, travelblogger, travelling, Vacation, vacation, Holiday, holiday
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Yokozuna is not just the name of a wrestling star in WWF

September 19, 2017
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We spent the earlier part of the day at the Sensoji Temple in the traditional Asakusa Area. The Sensoji temple is a lovely Buddhist temple built in the 7th century. Asakusa is the traditional part of Tokyo.

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We ate in a lovely local restaurant that had horse sushi as one of the items on the menu….Paasssss….I’m not trying to get tapeworms at this stage in my life.

Next we were off to watch Sumo. I was extremely excited. There was a bit of talking going on down on the stage and I kept hearing “Yokozuna…Yokozuna….” I thought back to the good ol’ Wednesdays of my childhood of chapatis for dinner, watching smurfs after school then watching wrestling in the evening….bah – I might be mixing up days….but I do remember those WWF matches – which I would only later on in life discover to be staged.

Yokozuna! Yokozuna! It was only in Tokyo during the sumo match that I learnt that Yokozuna is a title given to wrestlers who have reached the sport’s highest rank.

I am a fan of traditional wrestling. It’s just a pity that when I was in Bolivia, I didn’t get to see the female wrestlers – the fighting Cholitas. I thought to do comparison between sumo wrestling and Senegalese wrestling – la lutte/laamb gi.

Same – same

1.       Squat game on fleek- Given how huge the sumo wrestlers are, I was extremely surprised how fit they are given their large size. My favourite move during sumo would be when the fighters would squat and shuffle across the room in this squatting position. I’m carrying only a fraction of the weight each of them have and I would die if I tried this move.

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2.       Loin cloths….check! – If you are easily upset by the sight of people’s bums, you should not go for wrestling matches. The bare buns are even more noticeable in the Japanese context where there is a lot of flesh to be seen. I remember sending pics from the sumo match to my mum whose prebyterian church of East Africa inclinations led her to respond, “Ngai. They're just showing people their mapotties like that?"

3.       Gris-gris -  The sumo wrestlers were purified with salt before the match began while the Senegalese wrestlers each have their own marabout who blesses them with a liquid containing different elements for good luck. These ritual elements and the mystic nature of traditional wrestling seems to hold across different cultures.  

4.       Dramatic entry – Part of each match is about intimidating your opponent by showing them your strength. In sumo, the main ones seemed to be what I will call the sumo-bounce where the wrestler gets on one leg, tilts to the side and has a crazy power pose before going to the next side. In the Senegalese context, this was mostly dancing with power poses, some amazing stretches before fighting and call-response with one’s supporters to show strength and fame.

5.       Rigorous training – Everything in a professional sumo wrestler’s life is planned out – their look, their way of dressing, their meals, their rigid exercise schedule. Wrestlers are not normally allowed to eat breakfast and are expected to have a siesta after lunch.  They have to exercise in the morning on an empty stomach. Lunch is usually a stew with various fish, meat and vegetables served with rice and washed down with beer. The training for Senegalese wrestlers tends to be more focused on muscle gain more than weight gain, but is also quite rigid for the top wrestlers as competition is stiff and opportunities to make fortunes in la lutte are few – thus all the wrestlers are trying to be the next big wrestler. Large wrestlers train in the US where there is more advanced knowledge on bulking up. 

6.       Super-star/sex-idol status for the few greats – In each case, the most famous wrestlers have superstar status and are respected as local celebrities. In Japan, some of the famous wrestlers date supermodels. In Senegal, the biggest stars are recognizable faces everywhere, driving expensive cars, highly respected in the communities they come from and sometimes even getting advanced training in the US for the sport. The one interesting moment I do recall was when we witnessed 3 yokozunas coming out of a regular sized car. Maybe flossing is not that common in Japan? And that car….what type of magical stuff is it made of to not crumble under the weight?

7.       Path to winning – in both cases, the winner is whoever gets any part of the other’s body to touch the ground first…knees, hands, elbows etc.

 Different

1.       Size – Though both Senegalese wrestlers and Japanese sumo wrestlers are extremely strong, sumo wrestlers stand out when it comes to size. They are the largest people I have ever seen. It was quite beautiful when all the Yokozunas stood together on stage. If I had a boyfriend that size, would anyone ever bother me? I could be that chica who starts up fights in the club....just because..

In Japan Tags Japan, Tokyo, travelling, travel, travel blogger, traveling, travelblogger, vacation
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Shibuya, Nakano Broadway and funky random Tokyo bars

September 12, 2017

We were to meet as a group close to the famous dog monument at Shibuya – most have heard the story of Hachiko. Hachiko was a dog that belonged to a professor at the university of Tokyo. Every day, he would wait to meet his owner at the Shibuya station. One day the professor died of a brain hemorrhage. For the next 10 years, Hachiko faithfully went to wait for his owner every day at the same location – awaiting his return. The statue was erected in his honor and as a reminder to all of the lengths one will go to in order to stay devoted to a friend.

From here we were to cross what has been described as one of the world’s busiest crossroads. I must have missed a class as a child called “Crossing roads.”

This is me in general crossing any road when there are moving cars.

Shibuya is known as the mecca of Japanese high school girls. We explored the area including depa chika of Shibuya Station, i.e., foodie’s paradise. The area had cool bars and manga cafes that have libraries, comfortable chairs and hot showers. We spent the afternoon at a shopping mall called Nakano broadway that had everything under the sun. The mall has 3 floors and has all sorts of manga & anime stuff, rare toys and electronics together with a load of other Japanese pop culture goodies. At some point my feet started killing me and Mouna was my savior – she picked me up a pair of sandals from the 100 Yen shop..i.e. the Japanese version of a dollar store.

In the evening we went to the parliament building to get the best views of Tokyo. It was raining cats and dogs and I was navigating everywhere in my new sandals.

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In the evening we went to a very interesting small pub and chilled out till 2am.

In Japan Tags Japan, Tokyo, Shibuya, Hachiko, travelblogger, travelling, travel, travel blogger, traveling, backpacking, Asia
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Let’s talk about these hi-tech toilets and the face masks

September 5, 2017

Japan takes pooping very seriously – so seriously that thought has even been given to the shy pooper. A standard feature in all the toilets was a button that could be pressed that makes the sound of waterfalls to cover any loud farting noises that might come about during a poop session. I will never forget the toilets in a KFC in Tokyo that had vast options for different sounds to mask pooping noises. A few of these included the sound of birds chirping, a lake flowing etc.

It’s so serious that earlier this year, the largest toilet manufacturers agreed to standardize the icons used on toilets to stop confusing customers.

Almost by default, every toilet seat was warm. I really appreciated that. Nothing worse than sitting on a cold toilet during cold weather. Some of the #mirozinjapan really disliked the warm toilet seats though – they felt as if someone’s warm bum had just gotten off it. I’m not sure what’s so wrong about that. Would it be more comforting to know that the last person on the toilet had a cold bum?

As someone who does enjoy toilet time and sees it as a great opportunity to catch up on social media, reflect on life or read the labels on everything in the toilet (in those dreaded times when I don’t have my phone, a kindle, a book or a magazine to keep me company in the loo, I quite appreciated how welcoming the Japanese toilets were. It all reminds me of that story in Looking for a Raingod – The toilet. While not quite remembering the details, I recall the protagonist of the story living in a toilet. That always conjured up images of nasty toilets…but those Japanese toilets. I think someone could comfortably call them home.

While there are a few other things in Tokyo that could be considered odd e.g. cat cafes, rabbit cafes, cuddle cafes etc., one of the more obvious things I noticed was the face masks. So many people went about their daily lives with face masks on. What was most fascinating was how artistic some of the face masks were and how customized they were.

In Japan Tags Japan, Tokyo, MirozinJapan, travelling, travel, travel blogger, traveling, travelblogger, backpacking
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Picnic at Yoyogi park and finding platform 9 and three quarters in Tokyo

August 29, 2017

After the crazy party night, everything was difficult – including waking up. I finally dragged myself out of bed to go to Natsuno’s annual giant party at Yoyogi park. I was almost at the park when I got a message that this was our last opportunity to go get anything we had left behind at the temple we slept at before our cross-country Japan trip had started. I have to confess that I left around 2kgs of earrings, necklaces and rings because I realized that I would hate myself within a few days of backpacking.

We all have our addictions....

I took the train to the temple to get my stuff. Finally, I made it to Yoyogi park and it was lovely. Hundreds of Natsuno’s friends from everywhere round the world, eating, drinking and making merry. We were at the park till 8:30pm.

Mouna and I finally left to get to our Airbnb. We had been warned about train stations in Tokyo and how you can get lost in them for life, but we had not taken these warnings seriously. In the train station next to our home, we had very detailed instructions on how to get out and it took 15 minutes each time from getting off the train to actually getting out of the train station. Lazy and tired as we were, when we saw an elevator, we decided to take it up?

How difficult can it be to get to our exit from where the elevator takes us?

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That’s how difficult.

We got out and decided to try googlemaps as nothing looked familiar. How huge is this train station? Are we even still in Tokyo? Googlemaps directions read as follows, “Go straight. Get into the elevator…followed by lots of other directions.”

We ignored this – surely we won’t have to get back into the train station to find our home? We can’t be that far. After walking around for half an hour and having no luck, we decided to go back into the elevator and follow the directions we had initially been trying to avoid…the one we took every time that took 15 minutes for us to get out of the train station.

You would not believe it….the elevator that had brought us out of the train station, would not take us back down to exactly where it had brought us from. In short, we would never find Exit 2 – the exit that would get us home.

Did we imagine that we had been in that elevator before? We got so desperate that we just took the elevator back to the street. By this time we were so hungry and frustrated. We got into a restaurant and had dinner as we brainstormed on how we were going to avoid homelessness that evening.

Finally, we came up with a plan, “Let’s take any train back to roppongi, take the train back..and just follow the directions that we always used before. None of this..I’m too lazy to walk 15 minutes out of the train station business and using magical elevators that take you nowhere.”

At that very moment, hours later – we finally saw a sign for Exit 2. Mouna and I almost kissed the ground.

Freedom at last!

In Japan Tags Japan, Tokyo, travel blogger, travelling, travel, traveling, travelblogger, Holiday, Vacation, vacation
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Tokyo might not have been ready for the #mirozinjapan partying

August 22, 2017

After a crazy fun day of chasing noodles in Ohira, it was time to get back to Tokyo. We left Ohira at 6pm and were in our various airbnbs in Tokyo at 8pm. I was rooming with a few of my favourite friends and we had a really lovely – though small apartment. We spent a few hours chatting, pregaming, showering, more pregaming and getting ready for what was going to be our big Saturday night partying in Tokyo.

Tokyo was not prepared for how #mirozinjapan were going to party that night.

We got to the meetup point in Roppongi hills at 10/10:30 a bit lit and full of excitement. We walked in our large group to the clubbing area passing the tens of Nigerian club promoters trying to entice us into their different clubs on that strip.

Finally, we found the spot that we would call home for the next few hours. In bold letters, the sign read, “All you can drink at 1000 Yen (~$10)

Unfortunately, it was already 11pm and the all you can drink offer was until 11:30pm. We knew that teamwork would be needed to ensure that our $10 was recouped. All hands on deck!

You get the rum, you the redbulls!! Go! Go! Go!

We got greedy. All ~19 mirozinjapan formed a Henry Ford esque production line from the bar to the table…Every 2 seconds, a drink was being passed down the line to whoever needed it. We realized that we needed a base to operate from/put our drinks. In a fashion that can only be explained by the 1884 Berlin conference and the subsequent Scramble for Africa, we laid claim to various tables – which just like Africa – might have been occupied….Not our shining moment, but half an hour, 10s of drinks to consume between us, we were scrambling and there had to be some casualties. Soon we had a few tables between us and a forest of drinks in front of us.

“It’s not yet 11:30! More – order more drinks!”

And this is why this will go down in history as one of those nights of blurry memories, frantic dancing and pure revelry.

Some of the rest of the night’s activities include going to a bar next door to take shots with Natsuno, spending hours later walking through one of Japan’s funniest supermarkets at 4am– Don Quixote – that sells everything from baby clothes to sex toys to hundreds of flavors of kit-kat (green tea, wasabi etc.)

We are sure that we got home in one piece, because we woke up in our Airbnb the next afternoon- all set for the giant party/picnic Natsuno throws annually for around 200 people in Yoyogi park.

In Japan Tags Japan, Tokyo, travel blogger, travelblogger, traveling, travel, backpacking
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The practical guide to traveling around Africa if you’re African

August 15, 2017

After I wrote an article early last year on the struggles of traveling in Africa on an African passport, I was overwhelmed by the reactions from other Africans who could relate to my experiences.

At the time I was in the process of planning a four-country Francophone West Africa road trip and only sheer wanderlust and love of my continent kept me pushing along to get the visas. Just around that same time, the African Development Bank (AFBD) released its inaugural Africa visa openness report that confirmed it was easier for North Americans and Europeans to travel in Africa than it was for Africans. I was not surprised.

There have been some positive changes in the past year. According to the second edition of the AFDB report, it has become easier within the past year for Africans to travel within the continent. At least a third of African countries have liberalized their visa policies in the past year and this trend is expected to continue. Most African countries have either gone up in the visa openness scores or remained at the same level as before.

Even as visa restrictions are reducing on the continent, there is much to be said about the actual process when one needs a visa.

Other good news is that what the naysayers said would happen with increased intra-African travel (increased crime, terrorism, influx.) has not come to pass. Seychelles—which is classified as a high-income country—has no visa requirements for any Africans and this has been in place for years.


Rwanda, another forerunner in visa openness, offering visa on arrival for almost all African countries, saw a 22% annual growth in African tourists from 2015-2016, but only considered 0.045% of all visitors as suspicious individuals. In 2015, a quarter of all tourists visiting Mauritius were African. Africans are traveling in Africa despite the challenges.

To read the full article, click here -> Quartz

In Africa general Tags travel, travel blogger, traveling, Africa, Visas, Visa restrictions
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Don't play with your food...unless it's running noodles in Japan

June 27, 2017

We all know that you are not meant to play with your food, but there are rare exceptions to this rule. Running noodles in Japan counts as one such example. No better way to explain this, than to have you watch it for yourself. 

Disclaimer: No food was wasted in this game. All noodles, tomatoes and cucumbers were eventually eaten after the game. 

In Japan Tags Japan, MirozinJapan, travel, travel blogger, travelling, vacation, holiday
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The grand feast of Ohira

June 13, 2017

Having spent a wonderful day with the kids at Natsuno's former high school in Ohira, the afternoon was all about passing out. 

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All 18 - 19 of us MirozinJapan were going to stay with different families during our time in Ohira. We were staying with 4 different families. Afternoon nap time was amazing and was to prepare us for what Natsuno had described as a night of feasting in each of our individual homes. When it was dinner time at Natsuno's, she told us to dress in pyjamas, "because we are going to eat a lot and you need space."

When we got downstairs, we realized that Natsuno had not been joking. There was so many different types of food and at least 7 different types of alcohol - including 3 types of sake. Her family was not playing games. 

Family time was amazing. We ate to our hearts' content and drank to our fill. Natsuno's dad played the guitar for us, we looked at photo albums - made fun of Natsuno's childhood pics and had merry night. After all this we slept very soundly till the next morning. 

In Japan Tags Japan, travelblogger, travel blogger, travel, travelling, traveling, trip, holiday, vacation, Vacation
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